things I miss about South America

  • pisco sours
  • ceviche
  • humitas
  • empanadas
  • tablas
  • endless flavors of ice cream
  • completo hot dogs
  • mate
  • steaaaaaaaakkkkkkkkkk
  • ALL THE FOOD
  • the constant validation from men off the street (you always feel like you’re looking good, even if the attention is sometimes uncomfortable)
  • the way conversations with strangers were so easily started (you perk up when you hear English—if you have nothing else in common, that one fact makes you instant friends)
  • wine wine wine wine wine
  • endless activities (skydiving! canyoning! things!)
  • public displays of affection (kids are horny and they aren’t afraid to show it)
  • walking everywhere—somehow walking the same distances in minneapolis just seems weird
  • weird fruits
  • the people, their openness and pride
  • speaking Spanish like a boss
  • taking a fresh medialuna (the Argentinean croissant) and smothering it in half a jar of dulce de leche for breakfast, tearing it apart piece by piece and licking my fingers clean

things I need to do now that I’m home

  • buy more than bags of pretzels and hummus
  • start working, like, yesterday
  • put sheets on my bed, hellooooo
  • unpack. come on, unpack.
  • go to my art studio and create! create!
  • get out of vacation mode: you do not need to buy that gorgeous lamp, Natalie, because Roam will still be carrying it in like a month, I’m sure
  • go to shows! lots and lots and lots of shows! first ave, I have missed you! 
  • start planning for Europe 2014

hours spent on buses and planes

This was somewhat painful to tally…


Bussing

Quito—Banos = 3.5

Banos—Guaranda = 2.75

Guaranda—Salinas RT = 3

Guaranda—Riobamba = 2

Riobamba—Cuenca = 6

Cuenca—Ingapirca RT = 4

Cuenca—Galaceo—Chordeleg RT = 5.5

Cuenca—Loja = 4

Loja—Piura = 8

Piura—Lima = 16

Lima—Cusco = 20

Cusco—Aguascalientes (Machu Picchu) RT = 18 (4-hour bus ride turned into 14-hour bus ride due to a bridge being washed out and us having to walk through slush and mud to find a new bus)

Cusco—Puno = 9

Puno—Tacna = 10

Tacna—Arica (colectivo taxi) = 4

Arica—Santiago = 30

Punta Arenas—Puerto Natales = 3

Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine RT = 4

Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas = 3

Santiago—Valparaiso RT = 4

Santiago—Mendoza = 7

Mendoza—Buenos Aires = 13

Buenos Aires—Cordoba = 11

Cordoba—Salta = 12

Salta—Cafayate (day trip, not technically a bus, but close enough) RT = 9

Salta—Mendoza = 18

Mendoza—Santiago = 7

236.75 hours spent on a bus (approximately 9.8 days)

Flights

Minneapolis—Houston—Panama City—Quito = 8.5 hours, not including 3.5 hours in layovers

Santiago—Punta Arenas (direct) RT = 3.5 hours each way, 7 hours total

Santiago—Quito = 5.5 hours, not including a 5 hour layover in Lima

Quito—Panama City—Houston—Minneapolis = 8.5 hours, not including 3.5 hours in layovers

Time spent in a plane: 29.5 hours

Time spent milling about in airports waiting for another plane: 17 (12 hours above, plus a five-hour layover after my flight from Lima landed in Quito)

On my next trip to South America, I will do these things:

  • Sleep under the stars in San Pedro de Atacama, see the sunken hand in the desert, and slide down dunes
  • Take a boat down the Amazon and explore the jungle, tarantulas smarantulas
  • Tackle Columbia, become a drug cartel princess (kidding—Columbia is one of the most magical places in the world, or so I’m told)
  • Travel the less-traveled Bolivia (cheaper than Peru, even, and far less touristy), Paraguay, and Uruguay
  • Go to Iguazu Falls-the Argentinean and Brazilian sides—and take a boat, so I can really feel it on my face and everything
  • Hitch-hike through northwestern Argentina, including Cafayate and Cachi, where transportation is scarce and my feet will blister but at the end it’ll be worth it
  • Figure out Brazil, including Sao Paulo and Rio and whatever else that immense country has besides a party and a jungle and the msot beautiful beaches in the world
  • Galapagos Islands, for chrissakes, yes, like everyone else in the world, I want to swim with sea turtles and pet giant iguanas
  • Paraglide, bungee jump, and sea kayaking
  • Chill out more, eat more food, drink more things

A permanent souvenir: I got a tattoo in Buenos Aires. It’s a line from Pablo Neruda’s “Alturas de Machu Picchu: XII.”
It translates to “Give me silence, water, hope.” Because… well, here: I have had the most beautiful moments of silence on this trip, and I’ve been under waterfalls and on beaches and floating down rivers and drowning in rain, and I’ve always—secretly—been more an optimist than a pessimist, and I couldn’t be in Chile and not fall in love with Pablo Neruda, and Buenos Aires seemed like the best place to get inked.
Dear parents: I promise, someone will still hire me for something.

A permanent souvenir: I got a tattoo in Buenos Aires. It’s a line from Pablo Neruda’s “Alturas de Machu Picchu: XII.”

It translates to “Give me silence, water, hope.” Because… well, here: I have had the most beautiful moments of silence on this trip, and I’ve been under waterfalls and on beaches and floating down rivers and drowning in rain, and I’ve always—secretly—been more an optimist than a pessimist, and I couldn’t be in Chile and not fall in love with Pablo Neruda, and Buenos Aires seemed like the best place to get inked.

Dear parents: I promise, someone will still hire me for something.

Double pisco sour. Airport in Lima, Peru.

Double pisco sour. Airport in Lima, Peru.

I am sitting at a sushi bar at the airport in Lima, Peru, where I have just had the best sushi of my life possibly (I mean, Lima is the gastronomical king of South America, and I think this airport is seaside—so a breaded calamari with flounder and cream cheese and avocado roll wrapped in sesame seeds, yes!), and the server—between asking if I have a boyfriend—has somehow talked me into ordering another pisco sour, and a double pisco at that. Peru pricing—even at an airport—makes this all a feather touch on my severely beaten pocketbook, and reminds me that, though my time in Peru was punctuated by transit difficulties and small annoyances (cough broken iPhone cough), if I were to come back, I would be back for the food. Best. Food. Ever.

Also, I am going to be drunk for my flight from Lima to Quito. Damn.

excerpt from my journal, stranded for five hours at the Lima airport.
Finally. My turn. Arm in arm with Adrian, who would be in control of my life for the next half an hour.
Skydiving, Mendoza.

Finally. My turn. Arm in arm with Adrian, who would be in control of my life for the next half an hour.

Skydiving, Mendoza.

And this is the incredible, seasoned flight team: our venerable pilot (standing), Adrian, our jumper, in the bean bag, and his girlfriend, who handled all the video editing and organizational stuff. Taking a break between sandwich eating, still watching the sky.

And this is the incredible, seasoned flight team: our venerable pilot (standing), Adrian, our jumper, in the bean bag, and his girlfriend, who handled all the video editing and organizational stuff. Taking a break between sandwich eating, still watching the sky.

Meredith landing. Mendoza, Argentina.

Meredith landing. Mendoza, Argentina.

natalie gallagher. artist, writer, and the most unlikely south american explorer ever.

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